A Week in a Hot Tub – Letting Space in Taupo-Nui-a-Tia May 2012

In Taupo we created some of our most ambitious work, attempting new art in a strange land. We intended for the Taupo public to fall in love with Tim Barlow's temporary public fountain, to fall into line with some sharing and caring storytelling, and to dance on the streets to the hippest mobile radio station in a truck, D.A.N.C.E FM 106.7, we had big dreams.
Yes, we wanted projects that would shake up the way contemporary art works with festival audiences and meet those who didn't know about the Erupt festival. We were determined to pop up in small regional communities we were all meeting for the first time. It was quite an eruption - full of incident, joy and spontaneous combustion. Here’s is Mark and Sophie's geyser of a week bottled into a travel diary.
Sunday 13 May - Monday 14 May
Sophie: First days in Taupo for me are full of the mundane things that also come with art projects - finding materials, shopping, drafting programmes and chasing people. The only place I can find wi-fi is at the McDonald’s. We meet the Erupt Festival crew and check out our sites. Tim is still fiddling with his fountain's engineering. Late on Monday night we welcome Mark and our intrepid Massey intern Laila O’Brien with hot spinach and lentil soup.
Tuesday 15th May
Mark: Last day of prep and there’s the tension of everything working: will the geothermal geyser erupt? Will D.A.N.C.E FM’s new aerial - care of kooky, charming (but utterly pro) local Timeless Taupo radio - see them on air? Now we know what it must have been like to work with Len Lye.
Tim has driven up polystyrene rocks as a surround for his fountain. They were destined for the set of the ill-fated Christian motion picture Kingdom Come. I paint grey the gapfiller Tim has stuck the rocks together with around the Para rubber pool. It immediately has plenty of passersby fooled as being the real McCoy – it’s creepy how easy it is to fool people with the veracity of things when put in spaces they expect things to be legitimate.
In this case the fountain is placed on a strange hexagonal lawn outside Whitcoulls - as close as the town centre has to a central gathering point.
We went for this site as it seemed just the place Taupo should have for the community to mingle. A speaker’s corner, where temporarily a water vent and lots of people jumping will allow for lots of the letting off of steam!
We also get the storytelling session ‘shop;’ shipshape with furniture, a screen and visual material relating to geysers and public fountains. Tim also gets some of the books back that he’s sent out into the community to collect stories in – beautiful objects themselves in satchels.

The laneways here in Taupo provide some strong pedestrian urban design it feels good to draw attention to.
Sophie: D.A.N.C.E Art Club will be broadcasting from Wairakei Village School and Mangakino (a good 40 minutes away) on Thursday so intern Laila makes an extraordinary drive to both places for a flyer drop. She gets damp, and is shadowed by Mangakino locals in the dusk - sorry for that Laila!
I drive to the Volcanic Centre on the road to Huka Falls to try and meet GNS scientists we had invited to be part of Tim’s talks. Librarian Sheena Tawera gives me copies of some very relevant articles from NZ Geographic. It seems the scientists assume much of their knowledge is commonly held. In fact, the map that I covet most, showing the hotspots of geothermal activity, is part of a series that has been disestablished. Sheena squirrels around and finds me a copy.

Mark: By nightfall Tim has got the steaming hot water pumped out of Ian Warmington’s private geothermal bore and into Horomatangi Street by water truck. As soon as the hot water from deep under the earth’s surface starts pouring out the whole Letting Space Taupo collective collectively leap to one steamy conclusion: thermal pool time. The Public Fountain is thus christened by a winter’s hot dip in the main street of Taupo. Every town should have a public hot tub.
Sophie: One by one we get in. Swimming in the scalding hot water is pretty joyous in the drizzly rain.
Weds 16th May

MARK: I cycle ‘uptown’. D.A.N.C.E FM 106.7’s first broadcast is from the Rifle Range Road Retirement Village on the suburban rise above Taupo town centre this morning. Nice and high for broadcasting, if cold and grey. D.A.N.C.E started the day early, filming a dawn cooking show of Maila Urale baking the scones they are serving the senior citizens for morning tea! (images here).
It’s a slow tentative start which we only belatedly realise is because word had gone round the village that we were thought by the residents to be council officers coming to discuss the prospect of the village being closed down… After a rousing mihi, a cuppa, Maila’s scones and D.A.N.C.E FM being cranked up on the ghettoblaster with some mellow country sounds the mood warms up - lots of great korero and sharing of people’s life experiences.
The treat with this set up is that the radio truck is parked up outside, so the locals get to go out and tell their life stories to their neighbours inside the hall, 50 metres away. And across Taupo (here is some audio of Joseph, an offset printer being interviewed).
Finally we can see the glory of small temporary mobile community radio in action, bringing a tiny community together and broadcasting to the world beyond their flats’ doors.
SOPHIE: Tim’s first storytelling discussion in the shop is a cracker (listen here) - Jenny Pattrick’s story of a Pakeha woman who divined geothermal water and started to glow in the dark - crowns it for me – and (yes!) when the session is over we get to experience the fountain in full eruption.

MARK: I loved the whole model of community storytelling sessions in a shopping centre – such a nice parallel with D.A.N.C.E FM. It feels very right. Dylan Tahau of Tuwharetoa kicked off with the indigenous geothermal stories that are a fundamental base of people’s connection to this region, and the one thing the whole session really brought home is how important stories are to connecting us. They are a way a community express their ownership of natural resources and sense of belonging.
By the end of the sess Tim’s fountain had been joined by the D.A.N.C.E FM truck on Horomatangi, giving jumpers on Tim’s platform some sounds to leap to. The guys set up a stall handing out more scones and a specially composed soda drink entitled a Volcanic Sparkle, featuring a cola syrup homemade by some artists friends in Auckland. A community party vibe soon developed - an impromtu kind of shopping centre block party in fact.

SOPHIE: Unfortunately not all the commercial neighbours are thrilled and I get into a bit of damage control with the Westpac Bank.
Thurs 17th
SOPHIE: Laila and Mark and I drive to see the gates of Aratiatia Hydro Dam opened upstream to create very spectacular rapids. Its one of the oldest, and smallest hydro schemes running. Meanwhile D.A.N.C.E are prepping for their big tour to Wairakei and Mangakino.
MARK: Tim’s fountain comes to life today both with increased interaction from the public but hoardes of school kids here for the schools’ storytelling sessions. There’s great video here of a rabble making the geyser go. It’s fly by the seat of our pants running the sessions with the kids but really amasing. Laila gets the kids drawing their ideas for getting a geyser pumped up and GNS scientist Paul White is brilliant in talking about the geysers that once dotted this area and why they’ve now disappeared (video here). I find my school teacher mojo.
SOPHIE: Mark and I arrive at Wairakei community - where energy workers were originally housed - at 2pm to find the school hall in full disco with D.A.N.C.E Art Club running their ‘how to be a DJ workshop’ (images here). It’s great to discover the little kids dancing styles. I wish we had organised a better place that wasn’t entirely controlled by the school, but this is one electric session.
Driving to Mangakino in three cars everyone takes a different route and we feel strangely lost. But when we arrive at Mangakino it’s like we’ve warped into another plane. Lake Maraetai at dusk is beautiful and the welcome from Garry at the Bus stop café (an old Bedford bus) and the 25 locals is magic (images).
MARK: One of my cultural highlights bar none. Working up a party with a group of locals in the dark (people emerge cautiously from the dark like possoms round a campsite). Over but a few hours, sharing stories over music and toasties, and under Linda T’s tutelage doing the ‘Bus Stop’ dance together outside the Bus Stop Café (video!). This really does feel like social experimentation of a beautiful strong nature. I loved the locals getting on air and singing and shouting out (audio!) to their small community across the darkness.

Friday 18th
SOPHIE: Driving to the Waitahanui Kura around the lake Mark and I miss the community powhiri but are welcomed beautifully just the same. D.A.N.C.E are broadcasting from this small local school for the morning (images here) and welcoming the local Kohanga Reo. We experience a gorgeous greeting from the staff and students and I feel reluctant to return mid flight.
I drive back to town for the final Taupo Marama Arcade discussion and it is a corker (again, we have audio here). Even though we have a small crew there is the wonderful addition of Denise Roche-Green MP. The talk is about sharing information and there is a sense of having hope for collaborative geothermal use and management.

MARK: Waihatanui is beautiful. It’s nice to see face-painting enter the relational aesthetics lexicon. Just a joy to spend time borascasting and making pictures with these gorgeous tamariki. It feels like we’ve been here for days we’re made to feel so welcome.
SOPHIE: That afternoon we’re on the road again to Tokaanu - we open my sister’s family’s house, and we get to know the staff at the hotpools. Linda T does a great set into the dusk in the carpark of the Tokaanu hotpools, and I cook dinner with Josh from DAC.

MARK: A savoured memory is cruising round steamy Tokaanu with Sophie (this takes approx two minutes from one end to tother) listening to Linda T play Ardijah and checking out when D.A.N.C.E FM fades in and out of signal. Linda T is DJing from the heart of the local Maori’s geothermal resource. The rest of the Club are, predictably, having a nice long well deserved soak.
Saturday 19th
Tim has summed up some extraordinary untapped reserves to pack down the fountain in Taupo late Friday and move it with help from Al and Gareth at council with water truck to Turangi. Astonishingly its up and going about 10am, and seems to be spurting at ever increasing volumes in a town centre begging for some kind of feature. Turangi tamariki enjoy a day of getting wet, and the plume rises high in to the crisp blue sky.

It feels like a great achievement to get it here. Turangi town centre, public works planned has a sense of vacancy for its size and the fountain fits in beautifully. One of our first encounters on the day is with a bloke who shakes his head telling us nothing lasts in this placee for long before getting vandalized. Turangi is a place in need of fun, and the amazing steaming geothermal resource which is Tokaanu nearby deserves to be celebrated by the people who are its guardians. (lots of joyous video here)
Saturday is market day and there's also a Ta Moko exhbition at the nearby gymnasium, so we hit town at the right time.
D.A.N.C.E almost take the top off their truck moving under the shop eaves into the town centre, yet the great delight here was having both projects working in tandem. The truck is parked close to the fountain (“water on my decks!” squealed Linda T at one point) - meaning D.A.N.C.E FM have a dance floor! Young and old alike are busy all day jumping to good sounds on Tim's platform. Turangi gives the work a good stomping over.
Meanwhile the radio station also serves as Tim's public forum today with Anna from DOC and David Livingstone from Tokannu interviewed on air about the geothermal resource.
DAC give out their volcanic sparkle colas, which has added meaning when we're getting real volcanic sparkles when Tim's geyser spurts.
At the end of the session Turangi paid the ultimate compliment when one of the kids rushed over the to the local hall to turn the power back on the work, after Tim had closed it off. They didn't want their public fountain to stop.
SOPHIE: We have some hard core fans now - I talk to a guy whose daughter was up at Wairakei school but came to in Turangi for Saturday morning soccer- he knew all about DAC so came back for more. Wrapping up at 2pm we drive hard out to Taupo site for the Festival of Lights.

It is cold. Ahi and I go for some kai as the others prep for the evening party. The party is tremendous - DAC pull out all strings to interview the families that are walking through the park at night. Tim turns up after packing down the Fountain in Turangi to celebrate the final night.
Mark and I find a natural hotpool at the park down by the river - it’s very, very nice to relax into!